Victorian beauty; Transgender

Victorian Beauty; Transgender

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-3244622/The-original-drag-queens-Incredible-photographs-Victorian-men-daring-pose-elegant-studio-portraits.html, viewed 27.01.15, (digital image)

This is Lily Elbe, her story begins in the Victorian era; she was born a man and was one of the first men to go through with transgender operations during this time. Her story has been made into a film, 'the danish girl.' I have chosen to look into the story of Lily, because it was one of the first shocking stories of this time. It has taken my interest because it touches on the fact that she was born a man but makes herself up to be a woman; wearing makeup and styling her hair in a certain way. 

To her close friends Lily was known to be a transgender; but to the public she was a glamorous lady. She went though many operations to change her appearance and transform her into a woman, this life of hers ending though due to an operation to transplant a uterus went wrong. This is not the only story of transgender women and drag queens; below shows an image of Brigham Morris Young, also known as Madam Pattirini, fooled his audience into thinking he was a woman during his years on the stage between 1885-1900. Although to me and most people today would be able to notice straight away that these images where of men originally, that could be due to the amount of surgery and 'help' to become more feminine available today. Comparing these transgender women to Caitlyn Jenner and Laverne Cox of todays generation, there is a lot of improvement in the quality of the feminine look.                                                   

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-3244622/The-original-drag-queens-Incredible-photographs-Victorian-men-daring-pose-elegant-studio-portraits.html, viewed 27.01.15, (digital image)

During the Victorian era makeup was kept a secret, it was shocked to hear of women wearing makeup everyday, and the products used and spoken about were creams and cosmetics. The idea of a good skin care regime was more of a desire than makeup, as makeup was associated with prostitutes and actresses. Most makeup looks were designed to compliment a brunette, although lipsticks weren't available there were lip dyes and pigments mostly in rouge. Women rarely wore make up, except from a little power to keep the face from looking too shiny. Any other cosmetics worn, like eyeshadow and lip colour, were extremely natural and pink coloured shades. Skincare was favoured over makeup. In 1846 T.T Pond Company was formed, and went on to produce Pond’s Cold Cream and Pond’s Vanishing Cream. These creams became remarkably popular at the turn of the Century, and are still popular today!

http://vintagemakeupguide.com/victorian-look/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8oxPAn_8-uY, youtube, viewed 27.01.15, video 

http://www.huffingtonpost.ca/2015/06/17/laverne-cox-amfar-inspiration-gala_n_7603672.html, viewed 27.01.15, (digital image) 

These images of transgender women today show the improvement in makeup and operations to make a person more feminine. Both women are glamorous in their own way but do look like women, more so than the transgender people during the Victorian era. Inspirational pole like Lily, show there is no reason to not be yourself and to fight for what you believe in, this has inspired and encouraged many transgender people today. 

Victorian beauty Ideals

Victorian Beauty Ideals 

Victorian dress: male

Illustration from book: Victorian Costume, Anne Buck, 'The latest fashion' chapter 19, page 186, 1857, viewed 26.01.15

Cotton and wool waistcoats, 1875-1885, page 191 chapter 19, book Victoria Costume, Anna Buck, viewed 26.01.15 

Illustration, book: Victorian Costume, reproduction by permission of punch, page 197, chapter 19, 1853, viewed 26.01.15

These images of male clothing from the Victorian era show different examples of ways to wear certain outfits; some men wore waistcoats but mostly all the people from the same class would follow certain fashionable traits and wear similar clothes, expression of clothes and personality is a contemporary thing and was unheard of during these times. People from a high class would wear uncomfortable looking clothing with many straps and buckles, a bow tie with an overall smart looking attire. 

I have been looking at the male clothing of this era because my chosen character from the book Dorian Grey is a man. I will use a model in the end assessment and so need to look at the male side of fashion and makeup practices for this period. 

Homemade remedies and secret makeup: Compacts and Cosmetics, beauty from the victorian times to the present day, Madeleine Marsh;
a video on youtube called, makeup history; victorian era to the 1930's, also mentions the book on the information

During the Victorian era, staying pale and youthful was desired by many women, and homemade recipes and remedies were created to obtain this look. One remedy for whitening and preserving the skin was recommended by the toilet heath (1834); a concoction of bitter almonds, oxymurite of quicksilver and sal ammoniac to remove suntan. It was suggested to use distilled juice from green pineapples to remove wrinkles and pimpernel water to blanch the complexion. Women plundered the garden for herbs and flowers for their faces, Parisian women bound their faces in raw meat to use as a moisturiser and Spanish women squeezed orange juice in their eyes to make them sparkle. Nowadays we have similar ways in making ourselves sparkle, many products such as eye drops are available to brighten the eyes and make them sparkle. 

People who had the desire to look pale could use a product that is made up of cold creams; these products would be used to hide sunburn, freckles, remove spots and to overall blanch the skin. This method seems to be one that wouldn't harm the skin to the same extent as other recommended remedies. Below is a selection of images that show a number of ads for soaps and Vaseline's, most of which are very different to the ads that we would see today.  

Bleaching products came from the want to look like royalty, being fair was something has pleased the higher classes for years before this time. It was desired because it made the individual look as if they never need to go out, the lack of a tan would mean the person didn't work outside, unlike the poorer society. Many women would go out wearing an armer almost to protect themselves from the sun.  

Above selection of images taken from book; Compacts and Cosmetics, beauty from Victorian times to present day' chapter 2, pages 19-25, Madeleine Marsh, viewed 26.01.15 

Watching the film of Dorian Grey helped me to understand better the dress sense and style that was around during the Victorian era. The men would wear very elaborate suits and sometimes hats. The suits would be made up of shirt, bow tie, waistcoat, trousers and blazer, this would be worn by a gentleman in a high class. Although men didn't go to the extent that women did to preserved their beauty, they still used some of the cosmetics previously mentioned to look a certain way, and fit in with the social class.  

Cosmetics referred to anything applied to the skin of a medical nature, and products were pastes, powders and paints, used to alter appearance. People with acne or smallpox scars, or similar disfigurements, often wore pastes to smooth their complexions. All of these products were purchased at local pharmacist shops and through doctors or, for the very wealthy, ordered from dealers abroad. There were also the home-made versions, that even the poor where known to use.

Using Latex and age stipple

Using Latex and age stipple

Health and safety:

• Ensure that when using products that are going directly on the skin, to avoid any sticking apply a barrier cream
• Always take an allergy test on the client before applying any product like latex, look for any redness or itching, this should happen soon after the application
• Ensure the clients eyes are closed throughout the makeup process around the eye
• ventilate the room when using latex as it has a strong smell and use a small pot to contain the product, this will also vent the smell 
• close the lid in between use 

What I used:

• Kryolan barrier cream 
• Theatre latex and stipple 
• stipple sponge 
• soft makeup sponge 
• Kryolan super colour palette 
• Kryolan foundation palette 
• Makeup brushes 
• acetone 

This is my first try of applying latex to the skin, this is only one or two layers and is very thin, but still very effective, and has made old age wrinkles appear in the hand. It is important to remember the age of the person you are trying to perceive, look at people of that age and follow the natural lines on the clients skin. This will ensure a realistic finish. 

To get this effect on the hands, applied a barrier cream to protect the skin; I then used a soft makeup sponge in a feathered technique, covering the hand in a thin layer of latex. I then used a hairdryer to quick dry the latex. It is important to ensure the latex layers are dry before adding another layer on top, this is to make sure no wet product is trapped in the layers as the white colour will show through. Once each layer had dried, I then rubbed my fingers across the hand to make the latex peal away and look rough. This will be a good technique to remember when designing my looks for Dorian Gray. Once I have matched the colour with the clients skin, the latex will be hidden and will appear to be the skin of the model. Once the desired look is made, I used acetone and a cotton bud to finish the edges and make the latex smooth onto the skin of the client.     

To create a wrinkle anywhere on the skin, stretch the skin and apply the latex, once dried keep applying enough to build up a wrinkled layer. Because the skin was stretched it will relax once covered with the latex, this then creates an effective looking wrinkle.

I then applied the latex on the face, by the clients eyes. I asked her to smile aggressively and screw up her face to make the lines in her face appear, this can then be used as a guide to know where to apply the latex, doing this will make the makeup look natural and more realistic. Once I applied the Latex product I then went over the skin and the latex area with foundation and powder to match the colour with the skin. I then used a small makeup brush and Kryolan palette to make age spots on the skin and to bring out the lines on the clients face, this added to the ageing process. 

Stipple can also be used to crate this look, it is a product that contains latex, but comes in many colours to match the skin. 

What colours to use on the face:

• foundation to match skin colour 
• darker shades in the lines of the face, e.g. around the eyes and the mouth and either side of the nose to contour and thin out 
• blue shades under the eyes to make them look tired 
• highlight areas, on cheeks 
• use grey for the eye brows if wanted an extreme aged look 

Beauty Perfection and idolising

Beauty Perfection 

Perfection Definition: 
dictionary.reference.com/browse/perfection

• Completeness and flawlessness. The highest degree of proficiency, skill or excellence as in some art. Superbness, immaculateness, exemplariness.   

Like the character Dorian Gray, most people want to be young and beautiful forever; until quite recently, new surgery and medical treatments can be undertaken to prolong the look of youth. This is something sort after by many people in the 21st century, people who can afford to have surgery, change the way they look to seem more beautiful in the eyes of idles made in the media.   

Many people of the 21st century want the same as Dorian Gray; to be able to stay young and beautiful forever. People have obsessed over this want and then taken drastic measures to stay looking a certain way, in some case this can go terrible wrong. 

notes: 

inspired by dorian gray, 

stay young forever 

peoples obsession with staying young, especially in the younger ages 

looking in mirror, vanity 

'dorian gray' lifestyle in 21st century, people want to be able to do what they want and never face the conciseness 

http://izismile.com/2010/09/06/celebrity_plastic_surgery_before_and_after_photos_18_pics.html, viewed 25.01.15, (digital image)

This image shows Janet Jackson before and after her plastic surgery, in the before picture she looks natural and young, wanting to keep her youthful looks she turned to plastic surgery. In most cases I find that plastic surgery i.e. botox, makes someone look obviously fake and very stiff. Personalty I prefer a natural look, as you cannot change fate or stop ageing. She has also had a nose job to try to change the size of her nose; this is something that is becoming more and more popular with women who want to look like the 'idolised' western woman.   

http://8west.ca/facelift/facelift-before-after-photos-patient-2/, viewed 25.01.15, (digital image)

This is another example of plastic surgery, in this case the model had a face lift. I think in this example the face lift has made the appearance of her more appealing. Although I think she looks younger and more appealing, I also believe that no amount of surgery can stop the effects of ageing and it should be accepted by many people who try.  

https://www.drrawnsley.com/blog/kim-kardashians-nose-job-a-forensic-analysis, viewed 25.01.15, (digital image) 

Another example of a nose job, modelled by Kim Kardashian. Many people can be influenced by what they see in the media, and especially by people who idolise celebrities who have work done. This can result in more and more people feeling self conscious about their face and bodies, and result in more plastic surgery. 

Creating a mood board

Creating a mood board 

I have chosen a selection of pictures found on the internet, that I think illustrates the concept of Dorian Gray very well. I have chosen a mixture of images that are taken from the film and some painted by artists. I admire the makeup images; as they weren't all inspired by the film or the book, but I have chosen to look at them because the makeup inspires me to think about the makeup practices that could be done for the story. I have taken some images from the television series 'The walking dead,' as the makeup for this is incredible; each character is made up individually and with very precise detail, this works well and the characters look real and very gory. This type of makeup reminds me of Dorian's painting, as time goes on and Dorian became more and more sinful, his painting would age and degrade and eventually become something that looks very much like a zombie. 

The main characters of the film:
Dorain Gray-main character, and his portrait 
Lord Henry Wotton-bad influence to Dorian Gray and life long friend 
Basil Hallward-painter and friend to Dorian and Henry 
Sibyl Vane-first love of Dorian 

Brief summery of the book:
Dorian Gray exchanges his soul for eternal youth and beauty. Influenced by his friend Lord Henry Wotton, he is drawn down into a corrupt double life, indulging his desires in secret while remaining a gentleman in the eyes of polite society. Only his portrait bears the traces of his decadence.  

Bibliography of pictures 

• http://www.gurl.com/2014/10/03/terrifying-scary-creepy-halloween-makeup-tutorials-diy-costume/
• https://susannaoja.wordpress.com/2011/08/02/dorian-gray-2009, digital image, viewed 06.01.2016, picture taken from the 2009 film of the degrading painting
• http://stevenmepham.com/2013/literature-discussion-oscar-wildes-the-picture-of-dorian-gray, viewed 05.01.2016, (digital image) 
• http://greggorysshocktheater.tumblr.com/post/93436166607/rip-academy-award-winning-makeup-legend-richard,https://www.pinterest.com/pin/365354588494281683, viewed 08.01.2016, digital image, makeup by Dick Smith
• https://tkelly10489.wordpress.com/2013/04/24/entry-9-fifth-review-the-picture-of-dorian-gray-by-oscar-wilde-and-dorian-gray-2009-starring-colin-firth-and-ben-barnes, viewed 08.01.2016, digital image, 2009 film
• http://www.moving-picture.com/film/filmography/dorian-gray, viewed 08.01.2014, digital image, from the 2009 film Dorian Gray
• https://www.pinterest.com/pin/423127327469252385, 
• http://www.wired.com/2010/10/twalking-dead-makeup/?pid=1566,
• http://rhubarbes.com,https://www.pinterest.com/pin/377669118728269701, viewed 08.01.2016, digital image, zombie makeup, Image: Rot Jaw - Prosthetic Makeup by Tice Lerner via Stan Winston School of Character Arts More about The Walking Dead here
• https://www.emaze.com/@AILTFOR/Senior-Thesishttps://uk.pinterest.com/pin/305752262178403582/

Paris Catacombs

Paris Catacombs 

I enjoyed visiting the Catacombs in Paris, and learning some of the history involved with the remains of some of the people who have died here. Walking around under the ground, so far down it was underneath the metro, made me feel claustrophobic and a bit weary, the ceilings where very low in places and the ground was wet. The amount of bones and skulls placed here was unbelievable, each way I looked there were more and more remains neatly placed on top of each other which created walls. I could see that the bones had been here for so long that they had fossilised together, as some of the skulls looked like they could have fallen. I have chosen to look more closely into the Catacombs, because it reminds me of 'The Picture Of Dorian gray.' The deathly feel to everything in the tunnels and the rotting and degrading made me think of the make-up from the films, and the description of the painting in the book.   

Paris Trip 2016

Paris Trip 2016

A great experience and truly memorable, I am glad that I chose to take part in going to Paris.